Second Shooter Tips
I have put together this list to help us stay on track during the craziness of a wedding day. Please keep in mind I am very laid back and want you to have fun and GET CREATIVE. This is just for reference and mostly just tips and tricks to help you have the most successful time shooting for Mink Photography!
I will be editing your images and delivering them as part of a final gallery to the client, and I would like for the style to reflect as cohesive as possible for the gallery. For this reason, I have a few must haves while shooting for Mink Photography. Here's some of the guidelines that I really would like you to follow as closely as possible. Let's get started!
*****NEVER DROP YOUR SHUTTER UNDER 250 IN NATURAL LIGHT, EVER!!*****
- DO NOT delete images from your camera once you have begun shooting. This is a recipe for a corrupt card. Everyone (including myself) takes blurry photos to get the good stuff. It's ok!
- You'll be using your own SD cards to use as you need them throughout the day. Towards the end of the wedding I will be backing up your photos with my laptop so that you can leave with your images. You may use the images as you choose on your website, social media, etc. Just do not tag or contact the clients with your version of the images and do not use a geo tag/location. Photography clients tend to pick photographers based on style, so if they see yours edited completely different than mine, it could be confusing for them. Even though yours are just as gorgeous :)
- Most of of what we are going for is documentary style. Clean composition and backgrounds as much as possible. People definitely don't have to be looking at the camera. Authentic moments are best.
- Please keep your horizon line as straight as possible. If you tilt and shoot anything I will most likely not be able to use it. If it looks like they are walking sideways on a ramp it's a no go.
- If you think I'm already getting a shot, think of something else. As a second shooter it is absolutely okay to take chances and get really creative. Climb on things, get low to the ground, just do not shoot right next to me - go on the sides.
Shots for you to get:
- During bridal party, shoot from the sides! Get the bride and groom in the middle of their friends, vertical full body and vertical waist up. Same with the groom and groomsmen and bride and bridesmaids. A couple tight photos of the bride from the side look amazing! Also, feel free to photograph the bridal party members as they are placed in the group too. Vertical, vertical, vertical.
- During bridesmaid photos, when you're shooting the bride with her girls from the sides, make sure you also get a tight shot of the ladies holding their bouquets from the side too!
- Tight on faces for vows, I'll take one side you take the other.
- Wide first kiss shot
- Wide first dance shot
- Shoot on the sides for toasts
- Shoot guests reactions for ceremony, toasts, and dances
- Bride walking down the aisle from behind
- If the parents aren't divorced (we will go over these situations before the wedding) then get a photo of each set of parents together.
- Shoot 90% vertical 10% horizontal
- Lens settings:
- Prep: 50mm + 85mm, wide open to 2.8
- Putting on dress: 35mm + 50mm, 2.8
- Invitation suite: 50mm 2.8
- Other details: 50mm, wide open to 2.8
- Rings: 100mm/105mm macro
- First look: tight reactions, 70-200mm or 85mm 2.8
- Portraits: 85mm from sides, wide open to 2.8
- Ceremony: tight faces for vows, 35mm for everything else especially first kiss, all at 2.8
- Reception: 24mm or 35mm for a wide first dance shot, other than that 50mm varying from wide open to 2.8
*Again, DO NOT drop your shutter lower than 1/250.
- Shoot in RAW! I cannot use any images if they are in JPG! Please please please double, triple check and make sure you are shooting RAW files. Images must be shot in RAW as specified below:
Mark III: mRAW (3,960 x 2,640)
Nikon: Shoot with original raw settings as in camera
- Focusing tips: Do not shoot on ONE SHOT MODE or AF-S unless you are using flash at night. Ensure you are shooting on AI-SERVO (Canon) or AF-C (Nikon) all day.
- FLASH: If you do not use flash, the following three conditions must be met:
1. Stopping all action at least 1/250 sec
2. ISO no higher than 4000
3. Faces must be BRIGHT! Do not underexpose faces at ISO 4000
Just a reminder, please be sure to use a maximum of ISO 800-2000 when using flash! When using flash in darkness, simply reduce your shutter to 1/60 and the flash will generate light for your ISO 800-2000 just fine. When your flash isn't firing strong enough, you will need to pump up the flash strength (if you are using TTL, just add +1 or +2 exposure
- BACK BUTTON FOCUS - if you do not know what this is, now is a great time to learn! It will change your life. :) Using BBF (Back Button Focus) with AF-C or AI-SERVO is the only way to shoot moving action. If you shoot AF-S or ONE SHOT MODE, you will find your lens starting and stopping, slowing at key moments when you need to capture movement (i.e. Recessional, Grand Entrance)
How to for the following models: